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Cartier Ronde de Cartier Flamed Gold Watch | SIHH 2017

Marina Milojević | 01.05.17 | 07:01 PM

In just a couple weeks, at the SIHH 2017 exhibition in Genève, the house of Cartier will present yet another of its exceptional Métiers d’Art creations. The famous Swiss Maison, known for exploration and preservation of ancient and traditional decorative techniques, has now turned to the technique of heat bluing. Blued steel is something that we often see in fine watchmaking. Steel screws used in watch movements are often blue, so are the hands. Burnished steel components are used in watch movements because of their high resistance to corrosion, but also for decorative purposes, as blue remains synonymous with noblesse and royalty.

 Cartier Ronde de Cartier Flame Gold Watch | SIHH 2017

Heat bluing, or heat painting, is traditionally done by heating the metals, which hardens them and also gives them a distinctive blue color. During the process, the metal turns a full rainbow of colors, so removing the heat source at the right moment results in a desired nuance. Tempering colors produced on the surface of steel indicate the temperature to which the steel was heated. Light-straw indicates 204 °C (399 °F) and light blue indicates 337 °C (639 °F).

Tempered steel color gradations

Source: Wikimedia commons.

The very same technique of thermal bluing by hand has been applied in the creation of Cartier’s latest timepiece. The round gold dial of the Cartier Ronde was first evenly blued over its entire surface, to obtain a nice, almost uniform surface color. The outlines of the Panther, a timeless icon and a symbol of Cartier, have been scraped off by hand, before the dial enters another round of firing, but, this time, at a lower temperature. In this way, the blue of the dial remained unaffected, while the afresh exposed areas of the golden dial oxidized to the desired color. The final décor was obtained using multiple rounds of firing, each at a lower temperature than the previous, with new areas uncovered before each round of heating.

Cartier Ronde de Cartier Flame Gold Watch | SIHH 2017

Cartier Ronde de Cartier Flame Gold Watch for SIHH 2017 is powered by the Manufacture movement Calibre 430 MC with manual winding, which is exposed through the sapphire crystal case-back. The dial is encased in a round, 42mm wide case made from 18-carat white gold. A row of sparkling white diamonds of top quality appears on the polished bezel, while a beaded crown set with a diamond gives a final touch to this uttermost elegant creation.

Cartier Ronde de Cartier Flame Gold Watch | SIHH 2017

Available in a limited edition of 30 pieces worldwide, Cartier Ronde de Cartier Flame Gold Watch for SIHH 2017, arrives on a black alligator leather strap with a folding buckle in 18-carat white gold set with baguette-cut diamond. The watch is water resistant to 30 meters. More at Cartier.com.

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