
Ferdinand Berthoud, a new watchmaking brand launched by Chopard Group back in 2015, introduces its second creation. Just in time for the BaselWorld watch and jewelry show, taking place from March 22 to March 27, the house of Ferdinand Berthoud introduces the new Chronomètre FB-1R.6-1. Following up on the Chronomètre FB1, the new creation features an original regulator-type display and a sturdy carburized stainless steel case.
Just like the previous iterations of the Chronomètre FB1, the new model is inspired by Ferdinand Berthoud’s historical marine chronometers. We’re speaking about the 18th century scientist and watchmaker whose legacy spreads across a variety of fields: marine chronometers, watches, decorative clocks, scientific measurement instruments, etc. The design of the new Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R.6-1 takes its cues from the Ferdinand Berthoud’s research on his Marine Chronometer no. 7. The historical chronometer featured a number of innovative solutions, including the unusual regulator type display that assigned a different place on the dial to the hours, minutes and seconds displays by the use of a large central seconds hand.
The Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R.6-1 is a 44 mm-diameter watch with less than 14 mm-thick case made of hardened steel. The molecular structure of the steel has been altered by the diffusion of vapour-phase carbon, resulting in an exceptional surface hardness of 1200 Vickers. The case features two lateral portholes at 2 and 11 o’clock, allowing the wearer to admire the manually-wound FB-T.FC.R one-minute tourbillon calibre with fusee-and-chain transmission. There’s also a screw-down stainless steel case-back fitted with glare-proofed sapphire crystal, enabling the wearer to appreciate the haute horlogerie finishing.
The unusual new regulator has a mostly solid dial made of nickel silver, vertically satin-brushed by hand and black rhodium-plated. The dial, which is actually the rare side of the complication plate, reveals three small apertures, split for the best possible view – one for the hours at 2 o’clock position, a power reserve display, and a minutes counter with a hand engraved “pyramid” motif inspired by an openworked Ferdinand Berthoud astronomical clock belonging to the L.U.CEUM collection. The seconds are shown around the rim of the dial, on a flat inner bezel ring.
The unusual power reserve indicator is based on a patent-pending innovation - observable through a cut-out in the half-bridge on the case-back side, a truncated cone moves up and down along an arbor connected to the barrel. The cone is topped off with a feeler spindle passing on the energy state of the barrel to the levers on the dial indicating the barrel’s state of wind. A spiral spring compensates for the play between the components of this mechanism and increases the precision of the power reserve indicator.
The Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R.6-1, reference number REF. FB 1R.6-1, is available in a 20-piece stainless steel limited numbered edition. The watch retails for $241,500 USD. More information at ferdinandberthoud.ch.
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